{"id":2371,"date":"2019-02-22T22:26:30","date_gmt":"2019-02-22T22:26:30","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/circassiancenter.com\/tr\/?p=2371"},"modified":"2019-02-22T22:26:30","modified_gmt":"2019-02-22T22:26:30","slug":"tanrinin-ulkesinde-isler-yolunda","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.circassiancenter.com\/tr\/tanrinin-ulkesinde-isler-yolunda\/","title":{"rendered":"\u201cTANRI\u2019NIN \u00dcLKES\u0130\u201dNDE \u0130\u015eLER YOLUNDA"},"content":{"rendered":"

Sezai Babaku\u015f<\/strong>
\n<\/span><\/span> 20<\/span><\/span>.12<\/span>.2011<\/span><\/p>\n

Abhazya\u2019da zaman\u0131n ruhu: Her\u015fey de\u011fi\u015fir, ve her\u015fey ayn\u0131 kal\u0131r…<\/span><\/span><\/b><\/p><\/blockquote>\n

Tam yirmi y\u0131l sonra Ritsa\u2019n\u0131n balkonundan bakt\u0131m \u201cTanr\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00fclkesi\u201dne. Zaman\u0131n durdu\u011fu and\u0131 ve her\u015fey yolundayd\u0131… \u015eafak vakti, dostlar\u0131m\u0131n kanad\u0131nda geldim buraya. G\u00f6zlerimi kapat\u0131p \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131m balkona, derin bir nefes al\u0131p denizin ve havan\u0131n serin kokusunu \u00e7ektim i\u00e7ime. An\u0131lar pe\u015f pe\u015fe filizlenince, bitmesini istemedi\u011fim bir r\u00fcyadaym\u0131\u015f\u00e7as\u0131na uzatt\u0131m o an\u0131. Sonra, tan\u0131d\u0131k bir sese uyan\u0131r gibi yava\u015f\u00e7a a\u00e7t\u0131m g\u00f6zlerimi. Karadeniz\u2019in sisli uzakl\u0131\u011f\u0131na bakt\u0131m. Ve as\u0131l\u0131 duran bulutlar\u0131n ak\u00e7alanan y\u00fcz\u00fcne. Kentin denizle bulu\u015ftu\u011fu o bildik k\u0131y\u0131ya y\u00f6neldim; (sa\u011fda) tarihi binalar\u0131 ge\u00e7ip eski kalenin kal\u0131nt\u0131lar\u0131na do\u011fru, (solda) palmiyeleri ve okalipt\u00fcsleri a\u015f\u0131p b\u00fcy\u00fck s\u00fcrg\u00fcn\u00fcn ac\u0131s\u0131na tan\u0131kl\u0131k etmi\u015f olan eski limana do\u011fru ve (arkada) \u015fehrin i\u00e7ine uzan\u0131p botanik bah\u00e7esine ula\u015fan b\u00fcy\u00fck bulvara do\u011fru bakt\u0131m. G\u00fcndo\u011fumuna ramak vard\u0131. R\u00fczgar uykudayd\u0131, dalgalar uykuda. \u015eehir uykudayd\u0131, insanlar uykuda. Ve bal\u0131klar, mart\u0131lar, kediler uykudayd\u0131. \u0130\u00e7ten bir g\u00fcl\u00fcsemeyle selamlad\u0131m sabah\u0131n sessizli\u011fini. Tam yirmi y\u0131l sonra ayn\u0131 noktadan bakt\u0131m \u201cTanr\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00fclkesi\u201dne. Zaman\u0131n durdu\u011fu and\u0131 ve her\u015fey yolundayd\u0131…<\/p>\n

Evet, tam yirmi y\u0131l \u00f6nce oldu\u011fu gibi yine Ritsa Oteli\u2019nin k\u00f6\u015fe balkonunday\u0131m. Buradan bakm\u0131\u015ft\u0131m ilk kez Sohum\u2019a, ve buradan tan\u0131y\u0131p sevmi\u015ftim \u201cTanr\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00fclkesi\u201d Abhazya\u2019y\u0131.<\/p>\n

\u00d6yk\u00fcy\u00fc bilirsiniz: Buras\u0131 asl\u0131nda Tanr\u0131\u2019n\u0131n bu d\u00fcnyada kendisi i\u00e7in ay\u0131rd\u0131\u011f\u0131 yerdir de, yurtsuz kalmayal\u0131m diye biz Abhazlara vermi\u015ftir. Bizimkisi de bir \u00f6yk\u00fcd\u00fcr ya, yine de Papua-Yeni Gine\u2019lilerin kendi yurtlar\u0131n\u0131 \u2018cennet\u2019 sayan ya da \u0130branilerin \u0130srail\u2019i \u2018vadedilmi\u015f topraklar\u2019 diye kutsayan \u00f6yk\u00fclerinden daha sahicidir. Neyse, \u00f6yk\u00fcn\u00fcn bundan sonras\u0131 bana dairdir.<\/p>\n

Evvel zaman i\u00e7inde birg\u00fcn, b\u00fcy\u00fck b\u00fcy\u00fck dedem (ki, hen\u00fcz 8-10 ya\u015flar\u0131ndayd\u0131) bug\u00fcnk\u00fc Ritsa Oteli\u2019nin oldu\u011fu kumsalda haylaz haylaz dola\u015f\u0131p denizde ta\u015f sektirirken(!) sava\u015f ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f ve pek\u00e7oklar\u0131 gibi sala\u015f bir gemiye bindirilip Osmanl\u0131 diyar\u0131na s\u00fcrg\u00fcn edilmi\u015ftir. Zaman ak\u0131p gitmi\u015f, g\u00fcn olmu\u015f-yol olmu\u015f ve bendeniz, 1989\u2019un 23 Ekim\u2019inde Moskova \u00fczerinden Sohum\u2019a u\u00e7up, Ritsa\u2019n\u0131n benle \u00f6zde\u015fle\u015fen bu balkonuna bir haftal\u0131\u011f\u0131na konmu\u015fumdur. Bu balkondan Abhazya\u2019ya bakm\u0131\u015f\u0131md\u0131r, tan\u0131m\u0131\u015f\u0131md\u0131r ve sevmi\u015fimdir. K\u0131sa bir ziyarettir ama y\u00fczy\u0131ll\u0131k hasrete merhem olacak kadar \u015fevkat, devam\u0131n\u0131 \u015fart k\u0131lacak kadar davet y\u00fckl\u00fcd\u00fcr. Yine de, diyaspora defterini kapat\u0131p buraya geri d\u00f6nmem bir y\u0131ldan fazla zaman alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131r, 1991 14 Nisan ak\u015fam\u0131 yeniden ayn\u0131 balkona t\u00fcneyebilmi\u015fimdir.<\/p>\n

Merakl\u0131lar\u0131n, \u201cTanr\u0131 m\u0131 g\u00f6nderdi, otostopla m\u0131 geldi\u201d bak\u0131\u015flar\u0131 ve f\u0131s\u0131lt\u0131lar\u0131 alt\u0131nda, 1992\u2019nin 28 May\u0131s\u2019\u0131na kadar (yani bir y\u0131l, bir ay ve 15 g\u00fcn) bu balkonda kurulup \u201cTanr\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00fclkesi\u201dne bakm\u0131\u015f\u0131md\u0131r. Otel bak\u0131m gerek\u00e7esiyle kapat\u0131lmam\u0131\u015f ve her\u015fey olurunda gitmi\u015f olsayd\u0131 burada
\nkalmay\u0131 s\u00fcrd\u00fcrecektim ya, maalesef \u00f6yle olmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Otel kapat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f ama bak\u0131ma al\u0131namam\u0131\u015ft\u0131, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc (14 A\u011fustos 1992\u2019de) sava\u015f \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Dahas\u0131, bombard\u0131mandan fazlas\u0131yla nasibini alm\u0131\u015f ve y\u0131llarca d\u00f6rt duvar bir y\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131 olarak kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Sava\u015ftan sonra, her \u00f6n\u00fcnden ge\u00e7ti\u011fimde y\u00fcre\u011fim s\u0131zlasa da, arada bir dayanamay\u0131p yar\u0131s\u0131 u\u00e7mu\u015f balkona t\u0131rmansam da, taban\u0131-tavan\u0131 kalmam\u0131\u015f odam\u0131 \u00f6zlesem de nafileydi; giden gitmi\u015fti… Benim d\u00fczen de de\u011fi\u015fmi\u015fti, yeniden beriye d\u00f6n\u00fcp diyasporal\u0131 olmu\u015ftum. Bu arada, Moskova\u2019da palazlanan bir m\u00fcte\u015febbis, bir \u00e7uval parayla gelip otele el koymu\u015f, adam etmi\u015f, m\u00fc\u015fteri kabul\u00fcne ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Abhazya\u2019ya her gidi\u015fimde, ayn\u0131 oday\u0131 tutup balkonunda kurulmaya niyetlendiysem de, cebimde bir g\u00fcn\u00fcne dahi yetecek para olmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131r.<\/p>\n

Ve en son, 2008\u2019in Eyl\u00fcl sonunda kendimce haz\u0131rl\u0131kl\u0131 gitmi\u015ftim de, zafer kutlamas\u0131na ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131zl\u0131k kutlamas\u0131n\u0131n da eklenmesiyle m\u00fc\u015fteri bollu\u011fu ya\u015fanm\u0131\u015f ve benim odan\u0131n g\u00fcnl\u00fck ederi a\u00e7\u0131k art\u0131rmayla d\u00f6rty\u00fcz dolara kadar \u00e7\u0131km\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Mecburen bir kez daha pas ge\u00e7mi\u015ftim.
\n\u0130\u015fte bu kez oldu. Sunay Sohum\u2019dan aray\u0131p davet edince, Handan, Osman ve Bet\u00fcl bu davete te\u015fne olup beni de s\u00fcr\u00fcklemeye niyetlenince, dostlu\u011fumu pahal\u0131ya satmaya karar verdim. Tart\u0131\u015fmaya a\u00e7\u0131k olmayan \u015fart\u0131m, o otelin o odas\u0131nda konaklamam\u0131n sa\u011flanmas\u0131yd\u0131. Sa\u011folsunlar, naz\u0131ma katlan\u0131p neyse gere\u011fi yapt\u0131lar…<\/p>\n

S\u0131n\u0131r\u0131 a\u015fmak…
\n<\/b>
\nTHY\u2019n\u0131n koltuklar\u0131 s\u0131k\u0131\u015f\u0131k bir u\u00e7a\u011f\u0131yla \u0130stanbul\u2019dan havalan\u0131p yerel saatle 03:30 gibi So\u00e7i\u2019ye indik. So\u00e7i havaalan\u0131n\u0131n yirmi k\u00fcs\u00fcr y\u0131ld\u0131r bildi\u011fim-tan\u0131d\u0131\u011f\u0131m as\u0131k y\u00fczl\u00fc, pasl\u0131-pasakl\u0131 ilkel hali u\u00e7up gitmi\u015f; terminal yenilenmi\u015f, \u2018d\u00fc\u015fman kap\u0131ya dayand\u0131\u2019 ruh halindeki personel de\u011fi\u015fmi\u015f. Daha g\u00fclery\u00fczl\u00fc, modern bir havaalan\u0131 olmu\u015f. Belliki Ruslar K\u0131\u015f Olimpiyatlar\u0131 u\u011fruna So\u00e7i\u2019de bir devrim ba\u015flatm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Pasaport ve g\u00fcmr\u00fck kontrol\u00fcn\u00fc ge\u00e7ip bizi kar\u015f\u0131layan wan\u2019e bindik ve her yan\u0131yla \u015fantiyeye d\u00f6nm\u00fc\u015f kenti ge\u00e7ip Abhazya s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131na vard\u0131k. Burada her\u015fey b\u00fcy\u00fck \u00f6l\u00e7\u00fcde eskisi gibiydi. Pso nehri \u00fczerindeki k\u00f6pr\u00fcl\u00fc s\u0131n\u0131rda d\u00fczen, pas-pasak ayn\u0131yd\u0131. Sadece personelde biraz de\u011fi\u015fiklik olmu\u015ftu; nemrut suratl\u0131 ku\u015fkucu bak\u0131\u015flar\u0131n yerini daha lakay\u0131t bak\u0131\u015flar alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Gecenin tenhal\u0131\u011f\u0131 da yard\u0131m edince, 30 dakika gibi rekor bir kolayl\u0131kta s\u0131n\u0131r\u0131n Rusya taraf\u0131n\u0131 a\u015f\u0131p Abhazya taraf\u0131na ge\u00e7tik. Bu ge\u00e7i\u015f u\u011fruna 5-6 saat bekledi\u011fim zamanlar\u0131 hat\u0131rlay\u0131p, pasaportumu damgalayan k\u0131za abart\u0131l\u0131 bir c\u00f6mertlikle g\u00fcl\u00fcmsedim, o da \u2018beni bir de mesaiden sonra g\u00f6r\u2019 h\u0131nz\u0131rl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda g\u00f6z k\u0131rparak kar\u015f\u0131l\u0131k verdi.
\nS\u0131n\u0131r\u0131n Abhazya taraf\u0131nda da pek bir\u015fey de\u011fi\u015fmemi\u015fti. \u201cRuslardan ge\u00e7en bizden de ge\u00e7er\u201d pratikli\u011fi devam ediyordu. \u201cTanr\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00fclkesi\u201dnde pasaporta g\u00f6z ucuyla bakmak yeterdi, kay\u0131t-kuyut gibi teferruata ne l\u00fczum vard\u0131 !…<\/p>\n

Abhazya\u2019n\u0131n her kar\u0131\u015f\u0131 muteberdir de, benim i\u00e7in biricik olan Sohum\u2019dur ve \u00f6zellikle de Ritsa\u2019n\u0131n bulundu\u011fu k\u0131y\u0131 \u015ferididir. O y\u00fczden, s\u0131n\u0131rdan oraya kadarki Gagra-Gudaut-Novy Aphon g\u00fczergah\u0131na kay\u0131ts\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131mdan hi\u00e7 rahats\u0131zl\u0131k duymam. Sisli ve koyu bir tenhal\u0131kta yol al\u0131p, sabah\u0131n 06:30\u2019unda Ritsa\u2019n\u0131n kap\u0131s\u0131na dayand\u0131k. Uyku sersemi resepsiyonistten anahtarlar\u0131 almak epey emek gerektirdi. Ve sonunda, di\u011ferlerini kendi hallerinde b\u0131rak\u0131p odam\u0131n yolunu tuttum. Merdivenleri nefes nefese \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131m, heyecan\u0131ma h\u00fckmederek kap\u0131y\u0131 a\u00e7t\u0131m, odaya \u015f\u00f6yle bir g\u00f6z att\u0131m; her\u015fey farkl\u0131yd\u0131 ve her\u015fey ayn\u0131.<\/p>\n

Zaman\u0131n durdu\u011fu an…
\n<\/b>
\nBalkona iskemle \u00e7ekip, bir sigara tellendirdim. A\u011f\u0131r bir devinimle g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015f alan\u0131mdaki her\u015feyi yeniden ve yeniden g\u00f6zden ge\u00e7irdim. Hi\u00e7 hareket yoktu. \u00d6ndeki kahve oca\u011f\u0131na (rahmetli Agop\u2019un yeri) bakt\u0131m, yan\u0131nda satran\u00e7 oyuncular\u0131n\u0131n bulu\u015fma yeri olan a\u011fa\u00e7l\u0131kl\u0131 alana. Yeniden denize y\u00f6neldim, geni\u015f bir yay \u00e7izip solda koy\u2019un uzak k\u0131vr\u0131m\u0131nda bambu orman\u0131na gizlenmi\u015f da\u00e7a\u2019ya, devam\u0131ndaki yamaca ve daha ilerde \u00fcniversite binas\u0131na bakt\u0131m. Yeniden, sahil boyunca uzanan \u2018piyasa caddesi\u2019ne zoom yapt\u0131m. Kimi binalar\u0131n makyajlanan y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc saymazsak her\u015fey yirmi y\u0131l \u00f6ncesiyle ayn\u0131yd\u0131, yirmi y\u0131l \u00f6ncesi gibi sessiz ve k\u0131p\u0131rt\u0131s\u0131z. Zaman durmu\u015ftu. Ge\u00e7mi\u015fin kokusunu duydum, tad\u0131n\u0131 ald\u0131m…<\/p>\n

O an g\u00f6zlerimin g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcyle, akl\u0131m\u0131n ve y\u00fcre\u011fimin yirmi y\u0131l geriden bulup \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131\u011f\u0131 g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcler birbirine kar\u0131\u015fmaya ba\u015flad\u0131. Hi\u00e7 ses, hi\u00e7 hareket yoktu, ama dalgalar pe\u015f pe\u015fe k\u0131y\u0131ya toslay\u0131p k\u00f6p\u00fck b\u0131rak\u0131yor; mart\u0131lar kanat \u00e7\u0131rp\u0131p denize pike yap\u0131yor; \u00e7ocuklar k\u0131y\u0131da ko\u015fturup \u00e7\u0131\u011fl\u0131k at\u0131yor; r\u00fczgar a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n yapraklar\u0131na dans ettiriyor; ku\u015flar daldan dala dola\u015farak \u015fark\u0131 s\u00f6yl\u00fcyor; yeni yetme gen\u00e7ler a\u011fa\u00e7lar\u0131n alt\u0131nda acemice fl\u00f6rt ediyordu. Ve as\u0131l c\u00fcmb\u00fc\u015f, iki taraf\u0131nda deniz k\u0131z\u0131 heykellerinin oldu\u011fu geni\u015f tak\u2019\u0131n sahanl\u0131\u011f\u0131nda ba\u015flatt\u0131\u011f\u0131m karnaval t\u00fcm co\u015fkusuyla s\u00fcr\u00fcyordu; Ardz\u0131nba da te\u015frif etmi\u015f, \u00e7ocuklar\u0131n ve gen\u00e7lerin ortas\u0131nda Dalida\u2019yla dans ediyordu.<\/p>\n

\u00d6nce r\u00fczgar uyand\u0131 eskisi gibi, ve deniz ve mart\u0131lar. Uzakta, sokaklar\u0131 s\u00fcp\u00fcren iki sil\u00fcet belirdi, pe\u015flerinde g\u00f6lge gibi dolanan k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir k\u00f6pek. Sabah kahvesi merakl\u0131s\u0131 ya\u015fl\u0131 adamlar a\u011f\u0131r ad\u0131mlarla gelip oca\u011f\u0131n \u00f6n\u00fcnde s\u0131ra tutmaya ba\u015flad\u0131, eskisi gibi. Evet her\u015fey ayn\u0131yd\u0131, ama tan\u0131d\u0131k kimse yoktu. Sonra oca\u011f\u0131n kepengi kalkt\u0131, eskisi gibi. Ama g\u00f6r\u00fcnen Agop\u2019un y\u00fcz\u00fc de\u011fildi. Zaman akt\u0131, kalabal\u0131k artt\u0131. Daur\u2019u, Alik\u2019i, Gunda\u2019y\u0131, Rada\u2019y\u0131, Diana\u2019y\u0131, Ruslan\u2019\u0131, Manana\u2019y\u0131, Adgur\u2019u, Mi\u015fa\u2019y\u0131, Lena\u2019y\u0131, Viktoria\u2019y\u0131 ve di\u011fer dostlar g\u00f6rd\u00fcm, ama g\u00f6r\u00fcnen onlar de\u011fildi. Ve Eleni ve \u0130ndira, kendilerine kat\u0131lmam i\u00e7in bana el sall\u0131yorlard\u0131… ve Elenor, yine \u00e7apk\u0131n-muzip bak\u0131\u015flar\u0131yla beni s\u00fcz\u00fcyordu, ama hi\u00e7biri orda de\u011fildi…<\/p>\n

Evet, ge\u00e7mi\u015fle \u015fimdi kar\u0131\u015fm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. \u015eimdiki zamana, ge\u00e7mi\u015f zaman\u0131n g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fclerini ekip kendimce bir kolaj yap\u0131yordum. Devam ettim. \u00c7evredeki cafe\u2019ler-restaurantlar a\u00e7\u0131lmaya ba\u015flad\u0131, eskisi gibi. Ama hemen hepsi sala\u015fl\u0131ktan l\u00fcksl\u00fc\u011fe terfi etmi\u015fti. Otelin yan\u0131ndaki geni\u015f caddeye arabalar gelip park etmeye ba\u015flad\u0131, eskisi gibi. Ama eski-p\u00fcsk\u00fc jiguli\u2019lerin, volga\u2019lar\u0131n, lada\u2019lar\u0131n, niva\u2019lar\u0131n yerini son model bmw\u2019ler, mercedes\u2019ler, toyoto\u2019lar, lexus\u2019lar, infiniti\u2019ler, land rover\u2019lar alm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. \u00d6\u011fleye do\u011fru kalabal\u0131k artt\u0131. Y\u00fcr\u00fcyenler, konu\u015fanlar, \u015fakala\u015fanlar, g\u00fcl\u00fc\u015fenler. Bakt\u0131m yak\u0131na-uza\u011fa, gelen ge\u00e7ene. Bak\u0131ml\u0131, pahal\u0131 giyimli, kendine g\u00fcvenen insan manzaralar\u0131. Hepsi oran\u0131n insanlar\u0131yd\u0131. Lakin tan\u0131d\u0131k-bildik kimse yoktu.<\/p>\n

Her\u015fey de\u011fi\u015fir…
\n<\/b>
\nEvet, \u201cTanr\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00fclkesi\u201dnde i\u015fler yolunda gibiydi, herkesin keyfi yerinde gibi. Her\u015fey eskisi gibiydi, ve her\u015fey yeni. \u00d6\u011fleden sonra, \u015fehrin i\u00e7lerine y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fcp tan\u0131d\u0131k av\u0131na \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131m.<\/p>\n

\u015eehir genel hatlar\u0131yla ayn\u0131 g\u00f6z\u00fckse de i\u00e7in i\u00e7in \u00e7ok \u015fey de\u011fi\u015fmi\u015fti. Yirmi y\u0131l \u00f6nceki entelekt\u00fcel ehlikeyfin saltanat\u0131 bitmi\u015f, giri\u015fimcili\u011fin devri ba\u015flam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Eskinin \u00fcr\u00fcn k\u0131tl\u0131\u011f\u0131 ya\u015fayan d\u00fckkanlar\u0131na bolluk ya\u011fm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Bu, do\u011fal bir s\u00fcre\u00e7ti. Ayak uyduramayan \u2018eski\u2019ler \u00e7ekilmi\u015f, meydan\u0131 de\u011fi\u015fimin \u00f6ne itti\u011fi \u2018yeni\u2019ler doldurmu\u015ftu. Tan\u0131d\u0131klar\u0131m\u0131n \u00e7o\u011fu kay\u0131pt\u0131. Bulabildiklerimin \u00e7o\u011fu ise, yirmi y\u0131l \u00f6nceki de\u011fildi. Zaman herkesi de\u011fi\u015ftirmi\u015f, d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015ft\u00fcrm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fc. En ac\u0131s\u0131 da, yirmi y\u0131l \u00f6nce y\u00fcre\u011fimi hoplatan gen\u00e7 k\u0131zlar\u0131n ya\u015flanm\u0131\u015f kad\u0131nlar oldu\u011funu g\u00f6rmekti. Eskisi gibi \u201cSizaaay\u201d diye seslenip kucaklasalar da, bana katt\u0131klar\u0131 buruk bir tattan ibaretti…<\/p>\n

\u0130lk g\u00fcnk\u00fc aramalar\u0131m\u0131 tesad\u00fcfi kar\u015f\u0131la\u015fma metodu \u00fczerine s\u00fcrd\u00fcrd\u00fcm. Gazetecileri, yazarlar\u0131, \u015fairleri, ressamlar\u0131, m\u00fczisyenleri, akademisyenleri, \u00f6\u011fretmenleri… m\u00fcdavimi olduklar\u0131 mekanlarda arad\u0131m. \u00c7ok az\u0131na raslad\u0131m. Evet, entelekt\u00fcel dostlar\u0131m\u0131n bir k\u0131sm\u0131n\u0131 zaten sava\u015f s\u0131ras\u0131nda ya da sonras\u0131nda yitirmi\u015ftim. Kalanlar ise ya makas de\u011fi\u015ftirip giri\u015fimcili\u011fin r\u00fczgar\u0131na tutunmu\u015flar ya da yoksunlu\u011fun ve t\u00fckeni\u015fin tenha k\u00f6\u015felerine s\u00fcr\u00fcklenmi\u015fler. Kimileyin samimi ama \u00e7aresiz, kimileyin gururlu ama kof kucakla\u015fmalar ya\u015fad\u0131m. Hayat b\u00f6yleydi…<\/p>\n

Neyse ki, kadim dostlar Arda \u0130nalipa ile Liana Kvar\u00e7elia (ve Asida \u015eakr\u0131l) ile programl\u0131 bir g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015fme ayarlay\u0131p moralimi d\u00fczelttim. Her \u00fc\u00e7\u00fc de Abhazya\u2019n\u0131n yeti\u015ftirdi\u011fi en \u00f6nemli orta ku\u015fak yurtsever ayd\u0131nlar\u0131ndand\u0131. Sava\u015ftan hemen sonra kurduklar\u0131 vak\u0131fla topluma ve \u00fclkeye \u00e7ok de\u011ferli katk\u0131larda bulundular. Halen canla ba\u015fla \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yorlar; makas de\u011fi\u015ftirmeden ve enseyi karartmadan… Onlar\u0131 her g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcmde iyimserli\u011fim kam\u00e7\u0131lan\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

Halk cephesinde durum b\u00f6yleydi, devlet cenah\u0131na y\u00f6neldim. Evet, burada da pek\u00e7ok de\u011fi\u015fiklik olmu\u015ftu ama yeni gelenleri de gidenler kadar iyi tan\u0131yordum. \u00d6nce, sava\u015f s\u0131ras\u0131nda ve sonras\u0131nda (4-5 y\u0131l) b\u00fcnyesinde g\u00f6rev yapt\u0131\u011f\u0131m D\u0131\u015fi\u015fleri\u2019ne u\u011frad\u0131m. \u00c7i\u00e7e\u011fi burnunda bakan Viacheslav Chirikba hen\u00fcz koltu\u011funa \u0131s\u0131n\u0131yordu. Eski bakan Maksim Gunjia\u2019y\u0131 da severdim, ba\u015far\u0131l\u0131 bulurdum. Ama ne yalan s\u00f6yleyeyim, bu koltu\u011fun Chirikba\u2019ya daha \u00e7ok yak\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 kan\u0131s\u0131nday\u0131m. G\u00f6r\u00fc\u015fmemizin zengin i\u00e7eri\u011fi de beni do\u011frular gibiydi.<\/p>\n

Benim d\u00f6nemimde D\u0131\u015fi\u015fleri kadrosu 3-5 ki\u015fiden ibaretti. \u015eimdiyse 15-20 ki\u015fiye ula\u015fm\u0131\u015f. Hemen hepsi 20\u2019li ya\u015flarda, gen\u00e7, dinamik ve p\u0131r\u0131l p\u0131r\u0131l bir kadro. Ge\u00e7en y\u0131l UNPO ba\u015fkan yard\u0131mc\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131na se\u00e7ilmi\u015f olan Lana Ag\u0131rba\u2019ya da u\u011fray\u0131p \u00e7ene \u00e7ald\u0131m.<\/p>\n

\u00d6nceki bakan Gunjia\u2019y\u0131 ile de g\u00f6r\u00fc\u015f\u00fcp kucakla\u015fma \u015fans\u0131m\u0131z oldu, Abhazya Ticaret Odas\u0131\u2019n\u0131n uluslararas\u0131 ili\u015fkilerden sorumlu y\u00f6neticisi olmu\u015f. O da yeni d\u00fcnyas\u0131na al\u0131\u015fmaya ba\u015flam\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Sonraki dura\u011f\u0131m Abhazya Parlamentosu\u2019nun bilge ba\u015fkan Nugzar A\u015fuba\u2019n\u0131n makam odas\u0131yd\u0131. G\u00f6r\u00fc\u015fmemizi, kendi bah\u00e7esindeki k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck ba\u011f\u0131n hasad\u0131ndan demledi\u011fi \u015faraptan ikram ederek \u0131s\u0131tt\u0131, yeni d\u00f6nem beklentileri \u00fczerine etrafl\u0131ca konu\u015fma imkan\u0131 bulduk.<\/p>\n

Ve her\u015fey ayn\u0131 kal\u0131r…
\n<\/b>
\n\u00dc\u00e7 geceye ve d\u00f6rt g\u00fcne s\u0131\u011fan bu k\u0131sa gezinin son ak\u015fam\u0131n\u0131 yine Ritsa\u2019n\u0131n balkonunda ge\u00e7iriyorum. An\u0131lar e\u015fli\u011finde, yaln\u0131z. Burada ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131m y\u0131llar ak\u0131p ge\u00e7iyor g\u00f6z\u00fcm\u00fcn \u00f6n\u00fcnden. En g\u00fczel, en ne\u015feli, en heyecanl\u0131, en muzip… ve en zor, en s\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131l\u0131 g\u00fcnleri hat\u0131rl\u0131yorum, bir bir. \u0130yi ki gelmi\u015fim, g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm, tan\u0131m\u0131\u015f\u0131m, sevmi\u015fim. \u0130yi ki buran\u0131n tad\u0131na ortak olmu\u015fum…<\/p>\n

Art\u0131k veda vakti. Ortal\u0131k sessiz, sakin. Biraz ya\u011fmur, biraz r\u00fczgar. Sahile beyaz k\u00f6p\u00fckler b\u0131rakan dalgalar e\u015flik ediyor yaln\u0131zl\u0131\u011f\u0131ma. Ve sokak lambalar\u0131 g\u00f6z k\u0131rparak u\u011furluyor beni.<\/p>\n

\u0130\u015fte, yirmi y\u0131l aradan sonra ayn\u0131 noktadan bakarak g\u00f6rd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm Abhazya. Her\u015feyin h\u0131zland\u0131\u011f\u0131, dur durak bilmez bir ko\u015fturmacan\u0131n h\u00fck\u00fcm s\u00fcrd\u00fc\u011f\u00fc, h\u0131zl\u0131 \u00fcreten ve h\u0131zl\u0131 t\u00fcketen, h\u0131zla de\u011fi\u015fen ve h\u0131zla de\u011fi\u015ftiren bir d\u00fcnyada ya\u015f\u0131yoruz. \u201cTanr\u0131\u2019n\u0131n \u00fclkesi\u201dnde de zaman akar ve her\u015fey de\u011fi\u015fir. Ama burada zaman\u0131n ruhu bir ba\u015fkad\u0131r; her\u015fey de\u011fi\u015fir ve her\u015fey ayn\u0131 kal\u0131r, burada… <\/span><\/p>\n


\nSabah vakti Ritsa balkonundan g\u00f6r\u00fcnen s\u00fckunet…
\nFoto\u011fraf: Bet\u00fcl \u015eeny\u0131ld\u0131z Kanbolat<\/span><\/p>\n

Not: Bu geziye dair daha ayr\u0131nt\u0131l\u0131 notlar\u0131m\u0131, Nart dergisinin Aral\u0131k say\u0131s\u0131nda okuyabilirsiniz.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Sezai Babakuş 20.12.2011 Abhazya’da zamanın ruhu: Herşey değişir, ve herşey aynı kalır… Tam yirmi yıl sonra Ritsa’nın balkonundan baktım “Tanrı’nın ülkesi”ne. Zamanın durduğu andı ve herşey yolundaydı… Şafak vakti, dostlarımın kanadında geldim buraya. Gözlerimi kapatıp çıktım balkona, derin bir nefes alıp denizin ve havanın serin kokusunu çektim içime. Anılar peş peşe filizlenince, bitmesini istemediğim bir 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